The itinerary is very long and ascends to Forcella Marmol via the eponymous ferrata, after which a second equipped route begins. The equipped route has moderate technical difficulties in the equipped sections, but it is exposed and should not be underestimated in the unprotected sections both uphill and downhill. Ideal for inclusion in a multi-day itinerary.
Approach: The route starts from Case Bortot (695 m) aiming to reach Rifugio VII Alpini (1502 m). After leaving the car, follow the CAI 501 path, crossing the Ponte del Mariano (30’ from the parking lot) and continuing uphill along the Ardo stream. After a series of hairpin bends, you arrive at Rifugio VII Alpini (2h 45’ from the parking lot), a junction for several routes in the Schiara Group.
From the refuge, follow path 503 northwards to reach Ferrata Zacchi, passing through the Porton and arriving at the start of the ferrata (45’ from the refuge - 3h 30’ from the parking lot). After about 100 m of ascent, turn right onto Ferrata Piero Rossi (path 514), which leads to Bivacco Bocco-Zago (2266 m). Ignoring the detour to the summit of Schiara, continue through equipped sections and trails until reaching Forcella del Marmol (2262 m - 6h 30’ from the parking lot).
Via Ferrata: From the pass, the Sentiero Attrezzato Marino Guardiano begins, leading to Pelf. The first section is vertical and equipped with challenging passes, followed by a path on the northern slope. After a new equipped section near the ridge, continue uphill facing an exposed ledge and a ridge route, initially wide and unprotected, then equipped in some exposed points. The final stretch on the path and rocks leads to the summit of Pelf (2502 m - 1h 30’ from Forcella Marmol - 8h total from the parking lot).
