Prehistory
Archaeological and paleoenvironmental research, which the University of Ferrara has been conducting in Cansiglio since 1993, attests to indisputable traces of the presence of prehistoric man starting perhaps as early as 100,000 years ago. More complete data, however, concern a more recent phase of prehistory, thanks to the greater number of archaeological sites and their better state of conservation. These settlements shed light on the relationships between Cansiglio and the groups of hunter-gatherers who, starting 12,000 years ago, systematically frequented the plateau to exploit the food resources offered by the forests that grew after the last Quaternary glaciation. In fact, Upper Paleolithic Man established his first camps (tents probably built with wood and hides) near the Bus de la Lum: tools commonly used for subsistence activities have been found here (scrapers, retouched blades and burins for working leather, wood, horn and bone). Of particular interest is the site of Palughetto, near a humid area, where man created a reserve of flints to chip when needed. On the western side of Pian Cansiglio, dozens of Mesolithic age camps have been identified, dating between 10,000 and 8,000 years ago, thanks to the presence of numerous lithic artefacts: it is probable that some of these camps hosted men dedicated exclusively to the preparation of weapons for hunting activities. This set of discoveries suggests that during the Upper Paleolithic and Mesolithic, groups of hunter-gatherers had adopted a semi-nomadic lifestyle: during the winter season they settled in Alpago or in the Veneto-Friuli plain, while between late spring and early autumn they inhabited the mountains.
History
The first written testimony in which the Bosco d'Alpago (as the Cansiglio forest was then called) is mentioned is a 923 Diploma by Berengario I, crowned King of Italy with the support of the ecclesiastical authority, in which the sovereign donated the forest to the fiefdom of the Bishop-Count of Belluno. In the following centuries there were numerous concessions of grazing rights to institutions and private individuals, but the pressure of human activities on the forest increased when, in the communal era, the Cansiglio became the property of the Community of Belluno. The fate of the forest improved only from the early years of the 15th century, when the Belluno area also asked for protection from the Republic of Venice. The Venetians were aware of the importance of controlling the woods and waters for the survival of the fragile balance of the lagoon and therefore of their own city; for this reason, in the first decades of the 16th century, they established a magistrate "over woods and woods" to preserve the woods on the mainland. Cansiglio also had enormous economic importance for the Venetian State: its rich beech forest was mainly used in the production of oars and in the production of timber and charcoal. The French and Austrian governments, which succeeded the Serenissima with alternating fortunes, implemented a careless management, offering opportunities for revenge on the forestry heritage to the neighboring populations until, after the birth of the Kingdom of Italy in 1871, the Italian Government declared Cansiglio an Inalienable State Forest. The most recent history of the plateau is marked by the tragic events linked to the Second World War: in Cansiglio the headquarters of volunteers from the neighboring areas was established who, with alternating fortunes, joined in the partisan struggle.
Fauna
Cansiglio, an area where hunting has long been banned, offers refuge to many animal species. The easiest mammals to spot, especially at dusk, are the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) and the red deer (Cervus elaphus), present in the forest in good numbers. These herbivores, together with the fallow deer (Dama dama) introduced in the past by man, are continually expanding due to the lack of natural predators, even if in recent years the presence of the lynx (Felis lynx) and occasional incursions into the forest by the brown bear (Ursus arctos) have been reported. Many mustelids also live here, animals with crepuscular and nocturnal habits, such as the pine marten and the beech marten (Martes martes, M. foina), the badger (Meles meles) and the weasel (Mustela nivalis), the smallest carnivore existing in the entire national territory. The only representative of the canids is the fox (Vulpes vulpes): a mammal with very versatile eating habits, it can be encountered when returning from the night hunt to the den, often hidden near sinkholes and small swallow holes; among the leporids, however, it is possible to see the common hare and occasionally the mountain hare (Lepus europaeus, L. timidus). Among rodents, the agile squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris), the dormouse (Glis glis) and numerous voles and wild mice are common, while among insectivores we find the hedgehog (Erinaceus europaeus), the mole (Talpa europaea) and the lesser-known shrews. Many of these micromammals provide abundant food for diurnal and nocturnal birds of prey: among the former, the most common are the buzzard, the kestrel, the goshawk and the sparrowhawk, while only occasionally can we observe specimens of the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos); among nocturnal birds we find the tawny owl, the pygmy and boreal owls and the occasional eagle owl. The capercaillie (Tetrao urugallus), present with other tetraonids (hazel grouse, ptarmigan, black grouse), is now a rarity. More common, but equally interesting, are, among corvids, the crow, which is often seen near homes, and the colorful jay; in spring, the typical song of the cuckoo, a bird with parasitic behavior, is easily identifiable even from a distance; walking along the edges of meadows and pastures, the lark, a small passerine, can be recognized while it noisily soars above its territory; in the woods, signs of excavation left on the trunks reveal the presence of the black woodpecker and the great spotted woodpecker, regular visitors to the forest. In spring and autumn, during migration, it is not uncommon to spot, especially near the lame, aquatic birds, such as storks and mallards, which with their temporary presence enrich the karst environment of the plateau in an unusual way. Amphibians find favorable environmental conditions in the lame or in the humid ravines of the woods,therefore it is not difficult to come across specimens of newts (Triturus alpestris, T. cristatus), toads and frogs. Among the reptiles there are the adder (Vipera berus), the asp (Vipera aspis), the grass snake (Natrix natrix), as well as some saurians such as the viviparous lizard (Lacerta viviparis) and the slow worm (Anguis fragilis) which find abundant nourishment in the abundance of invertebrates.
Flora
The visitor who arrives in Cansiglio for the first time is struck by the beauty of its forest, strongly characterised by the presence of beech trees (Fagus sylvatica) often very tall and with columnar trunks. Under the branches, in the undergrowth, grow species that tolerate the shade: ferns, wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa), green hellebore (Helleborus viridis), wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella). The beech forest varies in splendid colours with the changing seasons and is affected, like all the vegetation of the valley, by thermal inversion: consequently we find it distributed mainly on the reliefs that surround the plain, where the climatic conditions are milder; lowering in altitude, the beech joins with the silver fir (Abies alba) and the Norway spruce (Picea excelsa), forming a mixed forest that in March is pervaded by the intense scent of the stick flower (Daphne mezereum), a small shrub with brightly colored flowers. Lower down, near the central depressions, there are instead pure Norway spruce forests, mostly of artificial origin, in which the undergrowth vegetation has a poorer appearance. Finally, at the bottom of the basin, where it is colder, there is an area of herbaceous vegetation of natural origin that over time man has profoundly modified for zootechnical purposes, not only expanding it to the detriment of the forest, but also operating a strong selection on the plant species. These large open spaces are dotted with the variegated colors of seasonal blooms: the spring one of gentians (Gentiana verna, Gentiana Clusii) and crocuses (Crocus albiflorus) is suggestive. The floral heritage of Cansiglio (inside and outside the valley), together with that of the Cavallo-Col Nudo mountain group, is such that it has aroused deep interest in botanists since the first half of the eighteenth century. In fact, during the glaciations, the Cansiglio-Cavallo group remained free from the thick ice cover, offering itself as a refuge to flora and favoring the survival of endemic species such as the silver geranium (Geranium argenteum). Of notable interest are the humid environments (lame, peat bogs) which, due to their fragility and scientific importance, are protected by law.
Geology
The rocks of Cansiglio are predominantly sedimentary: of marine origin, they were formed in the Cretaceous period by the accumulation of organic remains of marine animals and plants (corals, madrepores, molluscs, algae). After the emergence of the rock layers from the sea and the flexing of the central area of the plateau, this was exposed to the action of atmospheric agents, giving rise to the karst phenomenon, which currently characterizes the entire landscape and the underground environment. In fact, rainwater has an erosive and corrosive action on limestone rocks, especially if cracked, and favors the formation of more or less extensive basins; sometimes small depressions in the ground typical of the karst environment, the dolines, are clogged with debris and clayey material that make them impermeable, giving rise to permanent stagnation of water locally called lame. These small bodies of water have been for centuries the only sources of water available to both humans and animals, since karst does not allow the development of surface hydrography: all the water percolates underground to resurface at the foot of the plateau where it feeds numerous springs. The underground karst forms are predominantly vertical in development, such as sinkholes: the best known and most studied of these are the Bus della Genziana, 587 m deep, and the Bus de la Lum, 185 m deep, remembered for the sad events of the Second World War. These places, still partly unexplored, have been dedicated not only (since the last century) to scientific and literary writings, but also to popular legends that have increased their aura of mystery.
Man in Cansiglio
Man's activity in Cansiglio has two fundamental functions:
• to guarantee the conservation and protection of the naturalistic heritage;
• to allow sustainable use of the area.
SILVICULTURE
The management of the 5,920 ha that make up the Cansiglio forest is inspired by naturalistic criteria; the primary objective is to obtain an ecologically stable forest. The felling of trees is aimed at ensuring the spontaneous renewal of forest species, producing timber, conserving and improving biodiversity and eliminating plants attacked by parasites or damaged by climatic events in order to avoid disastrous epidemics. Some limited areas, the reserves, are instead left to natural evolution.
LIVESTOCK FARMING
The maintenance of the meadows and pastures, located at the bottom of the basin (about 650 ha), is entrusted to 4 agricultural companies, operating all year round in Cansiglio, and to 3 mountain huts with seasonal activity. The production address, in compliance with the local naturalistic values, is dairy livestock farming. The milk is processed at the Valmenera dairy which places an organic cheese on the market.
TOURISM
Among the management objectives is to promote a conscious use of the environment: a series of paths allows you to get close to naturalistic emergencies, while the numerous forest roads are ideal for mountain bike or horseback routes. The plain also offers some equipped facilities (refreshments, hotels, picnic areas); in summer a golf course is open, while in winter cross-country ski trails are prepared.
NATURE EDUCATION
The Regional Center for Nature Education "Casa Vallorch" is the point of reference for school children, teachers, families, associations and groups for carrying out educational activities, training and nature tourism. The Center offers a series of services ranging from daily guided visits to educational, training, recreational and sports stays. The activities carried out in the Friuli Venezia Giulia Region are instead organized by the Departmental Forestry Inspectorate of Pordenone (tel. 0434 5291) through specialized personnel belonging to the Regional Forestry Corps.
Peat bogs
Peat bogs, frequent in northern Europe, are quite rare in Italy, where they are mainly concentrated in the Alpine arc and exceptionally in the Apennine area. Their formation is in fact due to the concomitance of particular climatic factors, rarely recurring in the national territory, such as the constant supply of cold water, relatively low temperatures and high rainfall. In these environmental conditions, the organic debris of animals and plants, which are protected from decomposition processes, create peaty layers that are even several metres deep. These humid environments, despite being modest in size, are home to plants that are generally not very showy but of great naturalistic value, such as the round-leaved sundew (Drosera rotundifolia), a relict glacial species that, to compensate for the poor availability of nitrogen compounds, has specialised in capturing small insects, or sphagnum moss, which creates soft carpets characterised by high masses, capable of storing large quantities of water even in the upper part of the mounds. Peat bogs also play a primary role in the study of the glacial and post-glacial events of the plateau: the ability to conserve organic matter unchanged for very long periods of time allows, through the analysis of the peat and the pollen grains it contains, to reconstruct the evolution of the vegetation and landscape of the surrounding area. Due to their environmental exceptionality, the peat bogs, whose existence has been endangered in the past due to land reclamation and the industrial use of peat, are currently protected by law.
The charcoal kilns
The production of soft charcoal in Cansiglio has been documented since the Middle Ages. With the Venetian domination this activity spread to such an extent that it required regulation: it represented an important resource for the Arsenal and at the same time ensured the cleanliness of the forest, with the use of waste from forestry work and plants of little value. Once the lot to be carbonized was obtained, the charcoal burners set up a small shelter, useful during their stay in the forest; subsequently they cut the wood, prepared the clearing, called aial, where the charcoal kiln, the poiat, was to be built; they arranged the wood in concentric layers, around a central fireplace. The diameter and height of the charcoal kiln varied based on the availability of raw material; the pile, once completed, was covered with leaves or twigs and soil. Through the central fireplace, pol of embers and pieces of wood were introduced which had to be continually renewed because the carbonization, the cooking, depended on the heat produced by their combustion. Through some holes in the lining, the quantity of incoming air was controlled with great skill, even at night, while at the same time allowing the combustion smoke to escape. At the end, after having allowed the poiat to cool, the product was collected and bagged.
The Cimbri
The historical origin of the Cimbri (from the Cimbrian vocabulary "tzimbar" meaning wood craftsman) dates back to groups of German-speaking settlers who, around 1100-1300, left an area between Tyrol and Bavaria to descend into Italy, where some feudal lords needed skilled workers in forestry activities. The Cimbri arrived in Cansiglio as seasonal woodcutters, probably starting in the 18th century from Roana, one of the seven municipalities of the Asiago plateau, where there is still a strong community that still speaks the Cimbrian language. Later, during the 19th century, they built villages, some of which still exist (Le Rotte, Vallorch, I Pich, Canaie, Campon, Pian Osteria), to which they also moved their families and where some typical casoni still exist, with wooden structures resting on stone raised platforms and with fir "shingle" roofs. The rich beech forest of Cansiglio gave them work as woodcutters and craftsmen, providing abundant wood for the production of scatoi, small boards of variable length and thickness used to make sieves, bands for cheese wheels and other household objects, which were highly appreciated in the inhabited centers outside the forest. Currently some descendants of the Cimbri still live in Cansiglio, but most of them, following the socioeconomic changes of the post-war period, have settled in the surrounding villages (Spert, Tambre, Fregona), where some still practice activities related to the forest or have emigrated. The Cimbri of Cansiglio are recognized as an ethnic minority of the Veneto Region and are represented by the Cimbri del Cansiglio Cultural Association based in Pian Osteria (tel/fax 0437 472095), which takes care of historical research, promotion and dissemination, including through publications, of the Cimbrian language, traditions and culture. In this context, it is worth visiting the Cansiglio and Cimbri Museum of Pian Osteria, the museum area of the ancient village of Pian Canaie Vecio, the "Huta", a typical work hut located outside the Pian di Ladro-Baldassarre Reserve and the villages scattered throughout the forest. On the first Sunday of August, in the village of Pian Osteria, the feast of S. Osvaldo, patron saint of the Cimbri, is renewed, with the re-enactment of their ancient trades.
